Cartier at the V&A: A World of Jewels and Time

AVANTELIER visited Cartier

Writing by AVANTELIER, Photo & Video by AVANTELIER

This autumn, the V&A South Kensington presents one of the most dazzling exhibitions of the year: Cartier. Closing on 16 November 2025, the show gathers more than 350 breathtaking jewels, watches, and objets d’art from one of the world’s most celebrated maisons.

Founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier in Paris, the maison quickly rose from a family workshop to international acclaim. By the early 20th century, with branches in Paris, London, and New York, Cartier became known as “the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers.” From royalty and aristocracy to modern icons of film, music, and fashion, Cartier’s creations have symbolised taste, elegance, and daring design for over 175 years.

Cartier Exhibition

Location: V&A Museum, South Kensington, London

Dates: Open now – Sunday, 16 November 2025

Details: Explore over 350 iconic Cartier jewels and watches, tracing the Maison’s history, craftsmanship, and global influence from 1847 to the present.

A Journey Through Creativity

The first galleries celebrate the birth of the Cartier style, from 18th-century French inspirations to the global influences of India and the Islamic world. Here you’ll find historic treasures such as Queen Elizabeth II’s Williamson Diamond brooch, Princess Margaret’s beloved rose clip, and the Maharaja of Patiala’s extraordinary ceremonial necklace—pieces that embody Cartier’s genius for blending tradition with modernity.

To get a closer look at Cartier’s design evolution, watch senior curator Helen Molesworth unbox three Cartier red leather cases, each revealing spectacular diamond jewels that tell a story of 20th-century luxury and global influence: Watch here. 

AVANTELIER visited Cartier
Unboxing some seriously sparkly Cartier jewels from Victoria and Albert Museum

Gems, Mastery, and Technical Brilliance

The exhibition then turns to the art of materials and craftsmanship. Highlights include Barbara Hutton’s jade necklace, the vivid yellow 101-carat Allnatt diamond brooch, and María Félix’s famous snake necklace—alive with movement and character. For watch lovers, Cartier’s Santos (1904) and the rebellious Crash (1967) mark milestones in horological history, while the maison’s legendary mystery clocks continue to enchant with their magical floating hands.

For an intimate glimpse, curator Helen Molesworth also examines a sparkling Cartier diamond brooch from 1910. With over 100 diamonds and bold Art Deco tendencies ahead of its time, the piece shows Cartier’s flair for combining modernity, elegance, and refinement: Watch here.

AVANTELIER visited Cartier
Exploring a glittering diamond Cartier brooch from Victoria and Albert Museum

Reinvention and Iconic Style

The final section showcases Cartier’s mastery of image-making—from dazzling displays at the 1925 Paris Exposition to the embrace of modern cultural icons. Tiaras crown the finale: from the ethereal Opal Tiara to the Garland Style Scroll Tiara, even worn by Rihanna in 2016, these creations embody glamour, artistry, and timeless allure.

AVANTELIER visited Cartier
AVANTELIER visited Cartier
AVANTELIER visited Cartier

The Verdict

With so many jewels, watches, and objets d’art, this exhibition deserves at least two hours to explore in full. While the curation is elegantly straightforward—without unnecessary theatricality—it allows the pieces themselves to shine. Each case feels like a window into Cartier’s legacy of beauty, innovation, and artistry.

For jewellery lovers, this is more than an exhibition: it’s an immersion into the brilliance of a maison that has shaped the way we imagine luxury itself.

AVANTELIER visited Cartier
AVANTELIER visited Cartier
AVANTELIER visited Cartier 2
Cartier Timeline: 1847–Present
 
1847 – Founding of Cartier
•Louis-François Cartier takes over his master’s workshop in Paris, establishing the Cartier brand.  
 
1859 – First Boutique
•Opens its first boutique at 13 Rue de la Paix, Paris, marking the beginning of its global presence.  
 
1904 – Introduction of the Santos Watch
•Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviator, commissions a wristwatch from Louis Cartier, leading to the creation of the Santos de Cartier, one of the first wristwatches designed for aviation.  
 
1917 – Launch of the Tank Watch
•Inspired by military tanks, the Tank watch is introduced, becoming an iconic design in Cartier’s history.  
 
1920s–1930s – Golden Age of Cartier
•Cartier gains the title “Jeweller to the Kings and the King of Jewellers” from King Edward VII of England.
•The maison creates exquisite pieces for royalty and celebrities, including tiaras and Art Deco-inspired jewellery.  
 
1933 – Introduction of the Mystery Setting
•Cartier patents the “invisible mount,” a stone-setting technique known as the Mystery Setting, becoming a signature element of its high jewellery.  
 
1969 – Launch of the Love Bracelet
•The Love Bracelet is introduced, symbolizing eternal love with its innovative locking mechanism.  
 
1970s – The Must Era & Iconic Designs
•Cartier broadens its world of luxury with the Must de Cartier line—introducing leather goods, fragrances, and eyewear that made elegance more accessible.
•At the same time, the now-legendary Love Bracelet and Juste un Clou were born, symbols of modern romance and rebellion. 
 
1984 – Launch of the Fondation Cartier
•Cartier establishes the Fondation Cartier, a corporate foundation dedicated to contemporary art, showcasing the brand’s commitment to cultural patronage.  
 
1997 – 150 Years of Cartier
•To mark its 150th anniversary, Cartier unveiled dazzling creations, including the spectacular Éternité serpent necklace—an artistic fusion of diamonds, emeralds, and craftsmanship.  
 
2007 – Launch of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Watch
•The Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch is launched, featuring a distinctive round case and sapphire cabochon crown. 
 
2016 – Launch of the Drive de Cartier Watch
•The Drive de Cartier watch is introduced, combining vintage aesthetics with modern design elements.
 
2025 – Cartier Exhibition at the V&A Museum
•The Victoria and Albert Museum in London hosts a major exhibition showcasing over 350 pieces from Cartier’s history, highlighting its evolution in design and craftsmanship. 

References


+Cartier/ V&A
https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/cartier#articles
+ Filigree Jewelers – A Brief History of Cartier’s Iconic Watch Designs
https://filigreejewelers.com/blogs/articles/a-brief-history-of-cartiers-iconic-watch-designs
+ Le Monde – The Wild Years of the Fondation Cartier
https://www.lemonde.fr/en/culture/article/2024/10/28/the-wild-years-of-the-fondation-cartier-a-private-patronage-pioneer_6730753_30.html
+ Jewels in Time – A Legacy of Luxury and Innovation: The Cartier Timeline
https://www.jewelsintime.com/a-legacy-of-luxury-and-innovation-the-cartier-timeline

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